That there phrase could be a high compliment depending on the bird in question. I believe that the litmus test to a great restaurant or chef is how good their chicken is. Chicken can be a sublime experience if it is wrangled correctly and it usually isn't. I ordered the chicken at Chez Papa the other day and it was delicious, moist and perfectly seasoned. It rested on a bed of piperade, chorizo and potatoes and shined regardless of it's very tasty bedfellows. My lunch partner that day is a cook book editor for a very notable publisher. I mentioned [...]